Sardinia, an island off mainland Italy, is an unknown quantity to many travelers; most do not even realize that it is part of Italy. Sardinia’s 1.5 million residents do not speak Italian as their primary language, but rather a dialect descended from Latin, sprinkled with expressions borrowed from the languages of the various rulers (among them the Greeks, Italians, Muslims and Austrians) it has had throughout its long, turbulent history.

As bewildering as its history is, Sardinia’s geography is even more so. Mountains, valleys, plains and plateaus are scattered across the map in patches. The island’s coastal landscape varies, with high cliffs, mountains that dive straight into the sea, marshes, lagoons, caves and grottoes.

This destination appeals to the independent travelers "been there, done that" crowd. Europeans are the primary visitors, especially inside-track Italophiles and Italians. Sardinia is also appealing to archeology buffs.

The second-largest island in the Mediterranean, Sardinia is just a bit smaller than Sicily. Ancient sites track the island’s colorful, multicultural heritage. Characteristic of the landscape are nuraghe, rocks sculpted by the wind; and the red trunks of cork oaks. The area is dotted with ancient tombs, archeological remains form the Romans. Set on small mounds, the tombs can be easily found along a route, and explanations are printed in Italian, English and German. Along them is Coddu Vecchiu, ("giants’ tombs"), dating back from 1800 B.C., whose name was taken from its remarkable dimensions.

Politics seems to be one of the Sard’s greatest loves – even in he most remote villages, people display a sophistication that is at once surprising and welcome. This strength is reflected in the region’s past. The famous socialist philosopher, Antonio Gramsci, hailed from the village of Ghilarza, near Oristano, as did many of Italy’s leading politicians. Travelers can visit his home, which is now open to the public. To the north, just off the resort area of Costa Smeralda ("Emerald Coast"), is the island of Caprera, where Guiseppe Garibaldi, Italy’s unifier, spent his final years.

Among the most politically passionate enclaves is Orgosolo, where the walls are ablaze with brightly colored political murals that no visitor should miss.

Travelers who follow Sardinia’s northwest coast will reach Stintino and Capo del Falcone. The coast is dotted with caves that are accessible only by boat, except the Grotta di Nettuno. Here physically fit visitors willing to take the challenge can walk down the 700-step Scala del Capriolo ("stairway of the roe deer").

Farther south is the enigmatic town of Alghero. Signs are posted in two languages – Italian and Catalan, the distinct language of the northern province of Spain. In 1354 the Aragonese seized Alghero and reshaped it into Catalan city, which still displays its Iberian origins.

Hotels range from the lavish Starwood Luxury Collection in Costa Smeralda that can cost $1,000 a night to farmhouse stays about $55. A third option might be family resort, such as Club Valtur Village. Resort seasons run from early May to mid-October.

The Costa Smeralda offers waters that are extremely beautiful, clear and pristine. Starwood’s Luxury Collection features four properties, each with its own strengths. The best known is the Cala di Volpe, designed to resemble the fishing villages that once occupied the seashore. The other properties are the Hotel Pitrizza, Romazzino, and Cervo Hotel and Conference Center. Nightly rates range from $900 to $1,200 per person double, including full board.

The Valtur Village at Baia di Conte, an Italian version of Club Med, offers 7-nights stays from $500 to $1,280 per person (depending on dates); prices peak in August. Rates cover the use of all facilities, three meals daily and live performance in the evenings; escorted excursions are extra.

The agritourism rage has hit Sardinia – as it has the rest of the Italy, but travelers who choose these rustic farmhouse accommodations must understand that standards vary from place to place. The one certainty is that the food will be excellent and indigenous to the region. This is the reason many Italians stay at these places – the food is real "comfort food", what their grandmother might have cooked.

Sardinia’s Vernaccia di Oristano wine complements local dishes of lamb with wild fennel, rabbit with broad beans, chicken roasted with myrle leaves, kebabs (Oristano) and snails with tomato sauce (Sassari).

In Alghero visitors should try the waterfront restaurant Ristorante La Lepanto, which prides itself on serving "Algherese" cuisine. A price-fixed dinner without wine will cost about $40 per person. A typical meal includes an antipasto (usually seafood) or spaghetti followed by lobster with tiny onions and tomatoes, or lobster Catalan-style; diners finish with seasonal fruit, sweets and coffee.

Even those not staying at a Starwood Luxury Collection hotel can dine at any of its restaurants. The Romazzino and Pitrizza offer spectacular settings and excellent food. The Cala di Volpe dining room is a bit more formal, but the food is just as good. Expect to pay $75 per person without wine in any of these properties.

Al Italia flies to Cagliari and Olbia for about $225 round trip from Rome. The regional airline, Meridiana, flies to the same Sardinian getaways from Rome and Milan for about the same price.

Ferries depart daily from Civitavecchia at 6:30pm for the overnight trip to Cagliari. A three-and-a-half hour hydrofoil crossing departs at 8:30am, roundtrip tickets cost about $85. Call the Naples office of Tirrenia Navigazione at 011-39-081-720-1111, fax 011-39-081-720-1441.